Tucked in the valley of the Arlanza River, the historic town of Covarrubias is one of those places where medieval Spain comes alive. Timber-framed houses lean over cobbled lanes, the sound of church bells drifts across tiled rooftops, and legends from the dawn of Castile are written into its stones.
A unique story makes Covarrubias unforgettable…
The Castilian Kings sometimes arranged marriages with princesses from northern Europe due to potential advantages in regards to fertility and health of the offspring. There is the tale of a Norwegian princess whose father arranged for her marriage and she was sent from a snowy winter homeland of fjords and sagas to live—and eventually rest in peace—in this quiet Castilian town.
The Princess from the North
In the mid-13th century, Princess Kristina of Norway, daughter of King Håkon IV, journeyed south to marry Prince Philip of Castile, brother of King Alfonso X “the Wise.” Far from her homeland, she found herself in the heart of Old Castile.
Though her life in Spain was short—she died in 1262 at the age of 28—Kristina’s presence left a lasting imprint. She was laid to rest in Covarrubias, inside the Collegiate Church of San Cosme y San Damián, making her one of the very few Norse royals buried outside Scandinavia.
Local tradition says that Kristina asked for a church to be built in Spain in honor of her homeland’s patron saint, St. Olav. Centuries later, her wish inspired the construction of the striking San Olav Chapel, a modern Nordic-style hermitage just outside the village. Today, it stands as a symbol of the unlikely cultural bridge between Castile and Norway.
The Cradle of Castile
Covarrubias is often described as part of the “cradle of Castile,” a title shared with neighboring Burgos and Silos. Walking through its medieval quarter, you’ll see why:
- Torreón de Fernán González – A 10th-century defensive tower named for one of Castile’s earliest counts.
- Casa de Doña Sancha – A beautifully preserved half-timbered house that shows the town’s typical architecture.
- Arched plazas and cobbled lanes – Perfect for slow exploration and photography.
Together with the monasteries of Santo Domingo de Silos and San Pedro de Arlanza, Covarrubias forms part of a cultural triangle that shaped early Castile.
Don’t-Miss Highlights
- Collegiate Church of San Cosme y San Damián
The heart of Covarrubias. Step inside to see cloisters, altarpieces, and—most importantly—the tomb of Princess Kristina of Norway. - San Olav Chapel
A sleek, modern hermitage set in the “Valley of the Wolves,” about 3 km from the village. The design nods to both Castilian and Nordic traditions. - Princess Kristina Statue
A bronze sculpture honoring her story, a gift from the Norwegian city of Tønsberg. - Torreón de Fernán González
One of the oldest towers in Castile, echoing the days of frontier counts and epic ballads. - Medieval Quarter
Houses with wooden galleries and adobe walls line the narrow streets, giving Covarrubias its timeless atmosphere.
Tips for Visitors
- Time needed: 2–3 hours for the village itself; add more if including the San Olav Chapel or nearby monasteries.
- Best season: Spring and early autumn bring mild weather and lively festivals; summer evenings glow with golden light.
- Food: This is roast lamb country. Try lechazo asado in a traditional asador, paired with local red wine.
- Practical info: Churches and museums often close at midday. Confirm opening times, especially for the Colegiata.
- Getting there: The easiest route is by car from Burgos (~40 minutes). A visit pairs well with nearby Santo Domingo de Silos or a wine tasting in the Arlanza DO region.
For more details, see the official tourism page on Covarrubias.
A Day in Old Castile
An ideal loop from Burgos might include:
- Morning: Explore Covarrubias, the Collegiate Church, and Princess Kristina’s tomb.
- Lunch: Traditional roast lamb or lighter Castilian fare.
- Afternoon: Drive on to Santo Domingo de Silos for its romanesque cloister and Gregorian chant, or hike the nearby Yecla Gorge.
Why Visit?
Covarrubias offers something rare: the intimacy of a small Castilian village, layered with history that stretches from Viking royalty to Spain’s first counts. For travelers who crave authentic culture, legend-rich history, and food worth lingering over, this is a must-stop between Burgos and Ribera del Duero.
Covarrubias can be included as part of any of our Spain trips in particular, the northern Spain luxury food, and wine tour that can be tailored to fit your dates and needs assuming we have availability.
