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The Truth About Paella: What It Is and Where to Eat the Real Thing

Paella is a rice dish from Valencia, on Spain’s Mediterranean coast. The original paella valenciana is made with chicken, rabbit, flat green beans, large white garrofó beans, saffron and short-grain rice, cooked in a wide, shallow pan, traditionally over a wood fire. Seafood paella and black rice are its coastal cousins. Spaniards eat paella at lunch, often on Sundays with family, and rarely at dinner.

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What makes a paella authentic?

  • The right rice. Short, round varieties such as bomba or senia absorb the broth without turning creamy.
  • Real saffron, which gives the rice its golden color and gentle perfume.
  • A thin layer of rice in a wide pan, so every spoonful touches the bottom.
  • Socarrat, the caramelized crust that forms on the base of the pan and the part Spaniards fight over.
  • Cooked to order. A good paella takes 20 to 30 minutes, so the best rice restaurants ask you to order ahead or enjoy a starter while it cooks.

What are the main types of paella and Spanish rice dishes?

DishWhere it comes fromWhat goes in it
Paella valencianaValenciaChicken, rabbit, green beans, garrofó beans, saffron, sometimes snails
Paella de mariscoThe Mediterranean coastPrawns, mussels, clams and squid in fish broth
Arroz negroValencia and CataloniaRice colored black with squid ink, served with alioli
Arroz a bandaAlicanteRice cooked in rich fish stock, with the fish served on the side
FideuàGandía, south of ValenciaShort noodles in place of rice, cooked like a seafood paella

Where can you eat the best paella in Spain?

Valencia is the home of paella, and the restaurants of El Palmar, a village in the rice fields of the Albufera lagoon just south of the city, cook it over wood fires the traditional way. Alicante and the coast between them are famous for seafood rice. In Madrid and Barcelona, look for an arrocería, a restaurant that specializes in rice dishes. Our planners reserve tables at the rice restaurants we know and trust, usually for lunch, when paella is at its best.

Is paella the national dish of Spain?

Paella is Spain’s best-known dish abroad, but Spaniards see it as Valencian. Every region has its own pride: cured ham in Extremadura and Salamanca, pintxos in San Sebastián, gazpacho in Andalusia, and roast suckling pig in Segovia. Exploring those regional kitchens is one of the joys of a private trip through Spain.

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Dan O’Beirne

About the Author

Dan O’Beirne has called Europe home since 1998. As founder of Magical Private Travel, he leads a team that blends insider connections with local life to create authentic journeys. When not on his computer, he’s likely traveling in Spain, Portugal or Morocco, hiking trails, or playing soccer with his family.